New Well, or Just a Repair?
Pick what your well is doing and we'll show the most likely causes, the typical fix, a rough cost, and exactly what a licensed driller will check — before you spend a cent.
What's happening with your water?
Pick the closest match. This is guidance to help you understand a quote — not a diagnosis. Only an on-site driller can confirm the cause.
Choose a symptom to begin
Your likely causes, the typical fix, a cost range, and a driller's checklist will appear here.
Pump vs. Well vs. Pressure Tank
Almost every well-water problem traces back to one of three parts. Knowing which one is acting up is the difference between a $300 fix and a brand-new well — and it's the first thing a driller works out on site.
A submersible pump sits deep in the well and pushes water up to the house. It's the part that does the work — and the part that wears out, usually every 8–15 years.
When it's the problem: no water at all, weak flow that never recovers, or breakers that trip. Typical replacement runs $976–$2,825.
The drilled borehole, casing, and the aquifer it taps. The well itself rarely "breaks," but the water table can drop, sediment can build up, or — rarely — it runs dry.
When it's the problem: sputtering air, sand or cloudiness, or slowly dropping yield. Rehab varies; a full new well runs $3,000–$15,000.
A tank in the house stores pressurized water so the pump isn't switching on for every tap. A waterlogged or failed tank makes the pump cycle constantly and wears it out early.
When it's the problem: pressure that pulses or surges, rapid on/off cycling, higher power bills. Replacement runs about $300–$800.
When Repair Stops Making Sense
A pump swap or a new pressure tank is almost always the right first move — a $300–$2,800 fix beats a $5,000–$15,000 new well. But there are situations where drilling new is actually the cheaper long-term answer.
A well with steel casing older than 40–50 years may have corrosion, pinholes, or structural problems that make repair temporary. If the casing is failing, a pump replacement may work for a year and fail again.
The signal: repeated pump failures, rust-coloured water, or sediment despite a new pump. A camera inspection shows casing condition.
A well that once delivered 10 GPM but now runs at 1–2 GPM may have a silted-in screen or a dropping water table. Hydrofracturing or deepening can sometimes help, but the results are unpredictable.
The signal: air sputtering, water running thin after 15–20 minutes, or a flow test showing sustained yield under 3 GPM.
Persistent bacteria, nitrate, or chemical contamination that treatment systems cannot reliably control may mean the well location itself is compromised — too close to a source, or in a vulnerable aquifer.
The signal: lab results showing the same contaminant returning after shock chlorination, or a sanitary survey finding a contamination source that cannot be removed.
Rule of thumb: if the combined cost of the next two likely repairs exceeds half the cost of a new well, drilling new often makes more financial sense. A driller can usually give you a realistic estimate for your area before you commit to another repair cycle.
This is general guidance, not a diagnosis. Cost figures are rough 2025–2026 US market estimates and vary by region, depth, and local geology. One symptom can have several causes, and the only way to know for sure is an on-site inspection. Always confirm with a licensed, insured well driller before paying for any repair or replacement.
Before you act on this number.
- How long does a well last? Typical lifespans and what shortens them.
- No water: a checklist Rule out the cheap causes first.
- Cost a replacement well For when repair is not the answer.
Reading this properly.
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